Demitry Majors asked:


Trekking In Nepal to many sounds like one of those activities that one finds on a dream board or an activity that sounds so foreign that it belongs in some obscure National Geographic program about a far away place. Frankly both ‘trekking’ and ‘Nepal’ fall under that category of cryptic adventure activities and places. In reality though, trekking in Nepal is nothing shocking (other than of course the beauty of the environment itself) and not too, out of the ordinary for anybody who has been on a long hike.

When I set out to write this explanation of trekking in Nepal, I wanted to answer a question. “What is trekking?” I then realized that the answer is a lot more complex than what it seems. It also dawned on me, that when my friends and family posed the question, “What is trekking?” my cliché synonym derived answer “It’s like a long hike in the mountains” that is found on many “Travel Nepal” websites was no where near satisfactory. It’s not that they or I didn’t know what trekking in Nepal was when formulating the response, but rather that we failed to respond to the question in a way as to dispel the assumptions that rise out of stereotypes that exist whenever the words hiking, Nepal, Himalayas and remote are used in one sentence or close proximity to one another. It is these stereotypes that prevent a simple and accurate one sentence description of trekking in Nepal.

So what is trekking in Nepal, if the proper answer is a lot more than just the stereotypical, travel in Nepal by hiking? Let’s start with a little geography.

Nepal, is a landlocked nation, sandwiched between India and Tibet and stretched out along the spine of the Himalayan range. As such, it offers a vast array of habitats from tropical jungles to the alpine tops of the Himalayas themselves. What trekking in Nepal does, is create an opportunity for the traveler to traverse many parts of this varied terrain on foot, and experience the diverse habitats and culture encountered along the way. Still however, although entirely accurate, this answer is incomplete.

We need to first clear up some assumptions.

Clearly, Nepal can be considered as ‘remote’ geographically when viewed against other “more developed” regions of the world, but this doesn’t mean that Nepal is uninhabited and that when trekking one will hike for weeks without seeing any signs of life. Quite the contrary, (though such areas exist), a traveler in Nepal will find themselves no more than half a days journey from a settlement. This is especially true for the common major trekking areas of Nepal. The reason why is actually quite simple.

Nepal being situated on the mountainous terrain that it is, as well as proudly wearing the “third world” badge has to this day, a staggering number of ’1′ major highway. Appropriately dubbed the East-West Highway, it spans the country and provides less than a handful of axillary routes north and south with only one of these tributaries as the route to Tibet (China) out of Kathmandu. The importance of this, is that many parts of Nepal, are to this day inaccessible by vehicle and many portions, especially those in the West that are completely isolated.

One has to realize that before the ‘East West’ highway was constructed, the villages and settlements of Nepal were already there, and thus to this day, many of these population centers are still only accessible on foot.

Nepal is a country that has been squeezed between two trading giants India and Tibet (Today China) for as long as it has existed as a unified nation. The trade routes between these two Goliaths ran conveniently for Nepal trough it’s territory. Nepal not only had to facilitate trade between these two countries, but also have a way to support it’s own economy and trade system between the major metropolitan areas. Needless to say, that without roads, the only method of transport was by foot. A system of transporting goods by a web of footpaths was created and this rather complex, ‘via foot’ sort of Himalayan highway arrangement linked the Nepali villages with one another and are today the exact same routes traveled by the visiting trekkers.

It’s easy to wonder and assume, that the settlements offering bed and breakfast encountered along the trekking routes sprung up at such convenient intervals because of the ever expanding tourism itself. This other than some modern conveniences such as electricity is in fact false. In a book called “A Stranger in Tibet,” the author Scott Berry, describes the adventures of a certain Buddhist, Japanese monk that traveled along the now popular trekking route in the Annapurna Conservation Area in order to sneak into the then forbidden Tibet (Nepal being forbidden at the time as well). This monks adventure occurred in the early 1900s way before the word “tourism” was thought of in Nepal and yet the same settlements encountered by tourists and used as overnight accommodations today were encountered by this intrepid monk (Kawaguchi) some 100 years earlier. The reason is that these routes were being used for transporting goods even before Kawaguchi’s adventures, as such they are more often than not, no more than a half days journey from one another; built up out of necessity as continent travel stops for the traveling caravans.

Though trekking in Nepal does not include scaling vertical cliffs and climbing snowcapped mountains, views of both are ample along the way. Somebody wondering am I fit to travel Nepal, need not worry about training to climb Mt. Everest as that is not what trekking in Nepal provides. Trekking in Nepal does however provide a great day-long, on foot journey for multiple days through some of the most beautiful, remote mountainous terrain in the world, while still providing the opportunity for a warm bed and a home cooked meal along the way. It is in this that lies the answer to “What is trekking in Nepal?”.

See you en route!

Kate Thomas asked:


The government official spun around in his chair, kicked an empty beer bottle with his heel and stared out of the window. “North Kivu looks like heaven,” he said.

I agreed. A sunbird sang and we sat for a moment in silence, lost in the sunset. In the distance, cormorants and cuckoo hawks circled high above the glassy waters of Lake Kivu.

As the sky blackened and a plume of red smoke spurted from Nyiragongo volcano, the official took a long drag on his cigarette. “It feels like hell, my girl,” he said.

He could have been talking about any one of a number of conflict zones: the white sands of Baghdad Island, Herat in Afghanistan or Darfur’s mountainous Jebel Marra region, with its orchards, hot springs and long-drop waterfalls.

But this was Goma, once the “tourist capital of Congo” and North Kivu’s main town, perched on the northern shores of Lake Kivu, where jungle meets volcanic rock and gentle green hills.

The tourists don’t come anymore. Information centres are boarded up and the minister for tourism has turned his attention to journalists.

“The future of our province is dark,” said local resident Kennedy Ndayisenga, who once ran a successful tour company but now works as a fixer. “We don’t know where we’re going.”

Goma used to be known for its sunrises, mountain climbing and gorilla trekking. Now the city that has endured endless loss, destruction and volcanic eruptions against a perennial backdrop of conflict is in the grip of a forgotten emergency.

Since August, more than 175,000 people have fled violence in North Kivu between government troops, insurgents loyal to renegade Tutsi General Laurent Nkunda, Rwandan Hutu rebels and jungle Mai Mai militia.

Last week, the Congolese army used helicopter gunships, artillery and rocket launchers to retake the dairy farming town of Mushake – around 40 km (25 miles) from Goma – from rebels loyal to Nkunda. At least 35 soldiers, from both sides, were killed. At least 30 were injured.

Mushake was quiet when I passed through two weeks ago. Houses were empty, restaurants and drinking holes boarded up. Most of the residents had fled and only the wives and families of Nkunda’s soldiers remained. They stood around chatting in the square. One woman led me through the muddy streets to her home. We walked through a cloud of tiny baby-blue butterflies, past cattle grazing on the rolling plains, dotted with skinny eucalyptus trees and orange blossom. Now those streets are marked with blood, sweat and tears.

War zones aren’t supposed to be beautiful. And if they are, reporters probably aren’t supposed to admit it. But in Mushake, like the rest of North Kivu, it serves only to heighten the desperate situation.

The United Nations says tens of thousands of women and girls – some as young as a few months old – have been raped in the provinces of North and South Kivu in the past year alone. Deaths from hunger and preventable diseases are peaking. Villages empty as camps for internally displaced people swell.

At Mugunga IDP camp, I knelt in the black earth to conduct interviews with people who had lost everything. When I looked up, the mountains were embroidered with the gold rays of early morning sunlight.

In Goma, policemen carry rocket launchers almost as tall as them. In the countryside, children transport arms for rebels. Families shelter in schools and churches. Old men cry out for biscuits.

Yes, North Kivu is bloody beautiful. The mountains are bruised and the volcano is bleeding. Streams of blood-red lava spill over its lip. The smoky flames look like a flare, a cry for help.

This, as Joseph Conrad said, is one of the dark places of the world.

With neither tourism nor adequate news coverage, it will probably remain that way.

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Andy Burrows asked:


Visitors to Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand come for the quaint, unhurried pace of life, the bargain shopping and the potential to break out on retreats into the mountains and jungle with a trekking trip. Whatever your reason for coming, Chiang Mai promises plenty of opportunities for excitement, relaxation and historic journeys into the city’s past.

A trip to Mae Sa

A 30-minute drive to Mae Sa is a fun event for the entire family, as the area is packed with activities. Tourists venture out for the orchid nurseries; the well-known Elephant Camp where visitors can ride elephants and watch performances including a football match played by elephants; a snake farm and bungee jumping. Finally, the Mae Sa Waterfall offers a place to relax or perhaps go hiking.

Chiang Mai Night Bazaar

Chiang Mai is well-known for its handicrafts, silk and large markets. This all comes to a focus at the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar, a veritable shopper’s dream. Stretching the entire length of Chang Klan road, this market has become more of a tourist’s domain than it once was. Here you’ll find an assortment of jewellery, clothing, antiques, silver, all manners of souvenirs and knock-off designer items. It’s open every evening until midnight. This is where you’ll find many of Chiang Mai hotels.

Doi Inthanon National Park

Situated south of Chiang Mai, Doi Inthanon National Park is a unique wildlife preserve and often makes for a comfortable cool weather retreat after spending time in the city. It’s the tallest mountain in Thailand at a grand height of 8,415 feet. Camping is permitted in the park and the natural surroundings make for an excellent getaway. This is one of the best places for trekking in Northern Thailand.

Wat Phratat Doi Suthep

Overlooking the Old City of Chiang Mai, the mountain of Doi Suthep holds one of Thailand’s most sacred temples. The 300-stair climb leads you to the large chedi and golden spire. This large temple complex dates back to the 14th century and the view of the city achieved from the marble courtyard is worth the trip alone. No trip to Chiang Mai is complete without visiting Doi Suthep. Ask the concierge at the hotels for assistance getting up there, it’s one of the most important in Thailand.

Thai massage and spas

Places to get a massage can literally be found on almost every street of the Old City, and prices range depending on quality and accessibility. Thai massage is world-renown, and some of the most skilled masseurs can be found in the more upscale spas, which also offer body scrubs and detox and beautification treatments. Even at these high-end facilities, the money spent is still fantastic value when compared to the superb quality of the treatment.

Chiang Mai Zoo

Don’t be surprised if a local asks you if you’ve visited the zoo yet—most likely, they’re wondering if you’ve seen the pair of pandas which are on loan from China, an endless source of pride for locals. These are only two of the more than 6,000 animals on display at the zoo which sits at the base of Suthep Mountain, from where there are wonderful views of the city.

Courses and training

Chiang Mai overflows with all sorts of courses in which tourists can enrol for only a few days or weeks at a time. Due to the affordable prices and the comfortable atmosphere in Chiang Mai, visitors are tempted to dig in and stay a while. So whether you’re looking to learn the art of Thai massage, perfect your Thai cooking skills or study Thai boxing, you’ll find it here for every level and length of time. When in Thailand this is highly recommended.

The Old City

A tour of the Old City is easily done on foot or by bike, and is the best way to come face-to-face with Chiang Mai’s legacy. Portions of the old wall were restored in the 19th century, and the 700-year-old moat that surrounds the city has been beautifully preserved. The city gates have also been restored, and each marks an important commercial avenue in or out of the city. Temples are spread across the entire Old City, and some of the more important include Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Phrasingh and Wat Chiang Mai.

Adventure sports

Any number of adventure sports can be organised through travel agencies in Chiang Mai. Some of the more popular outings include white-water rafting on the Mae Tang River, which is 1 hour, 30 minute drive out of town; mountain biking on Doi Suthep with the added bonus of spending time at the temple if you make it all the way to the top, and rock climbing at Crazy Horse Buttress. There’s also an outdoor climbing wall located to one side of the Night Bazaar. Trekking in Chiang Mai is perhaps the biggest drawcard

Trekking Northern Thailand

It’s impossible to list the major attractions of Chiang Mai without mentioning trekking. Tour guide operators use the city as a springboard from which to organise trips into the surrounding mountainous jungles. Expeditions are packed with a variety of activities and range from daytrips to several night journeys that include hiking, elephant riding and bamboo rafting. Routes are planned around hill tribe villages, where overnight accommodation is provided. Trekking is the best way to see rural Northern Thailand.

Remember to book your Chiang Mai hotels early in the high season.